Do You Have to Cut Interfacing on the Grain?
When it comes to cutting out fusible interfacing, there’s often confusion about whether it needs to be cut on the grain. The grain is the direction in which the threads of the fabric run, and it’s important to pay attention to it when cutting out fabric for garment construction. However, when it comes to cutting fusible interfacing, the rules are slightly different.
Fusible interfacing is a type of fabric that’s a layer of adhesive on one side. This adhesive is activated by heat and pressure, and when applied to fabric, it helps to stabilize and support it. This is because the interfacing isn’t going to be visible from the outside of the garment, so the direction of the grain doesn’t affect the overall appearance or drape.
That being said, it’s still important to cut the interfacing accurately and with clean edges. This will ensure that it attaches smoothly to the fabric and provides the desired level of support. It’s also a good idea to fuse a small piece of the interfacing to a scrap of fabric before applying it to the actual garment. This will allow you to test the adhesive and make any necessary adjustments before committing to the final application.
When working with fusible interfacing, it’s also important to consider the type of fabric you’re using. Different fabrics have different properties, and some may require a specific type of interfacing or a certain direction for cutting. For example, if you’re working with a knit fabric, using a knit interfacing and cutting it on the cross-grain may be recommended to maintain the stretch and drape of the fabric.
Testing the adhesive on a scrap of fabric before applying it to the actual garment is also a good idea. Additionally, considering the type of fabric you’re working with and any specific recommendations for interfacing will help ensure the best results.
How to Choose the Right Interfacing for Your Fabric
When choosing the right interfacing for your fabric, it’s important to consider the weight and drape of the fabric as well as the desired outcome of your project. Fusible interfacing is a popular option that’s easy to use and provides a good bond with your fabric. However, it’s important to be mindful of the grain when cutting out fusible interfacing.
The grain of the fabric refers to the direction of the threads running parallel to the selvage. It’s important to align the grain of both your fabric and interfacing to ensure a proper fit and appearance. Cutting the interfacing along the grainline will help prevent distortion and stretching.
If your fabric has a noticeable grain, such as stripes or plaids, it’s especially important to match the grain of the interfacing to the fabric for a professional finish. Take the time to properly align the grain before cutting out your fusible interfacing to ensure the best results.
While some sources may argue that grain direction doesn’t matter when working with fusible interfacing, it’s advisable to follow the manufacturer's instructions and align the grain with the fabric for a professional and visually appealing finish. Additionally, using high-quality thread, such as the Madeira Aerolock Premium Serger thread, can greatly enhance the durability and longevity of your sewing projects, especially when working with sergers/overlock and coverlock machines like the Janome CoverPro family. By paying attention to both the grain direction and the quality of thread, you can achieve excellent results and create garments and projects that withstand the test of time.